Wednesday, April 6, 2011

My Chanel Jacket...Part 1

For years ,I've been wanting to make another Chanel type jacket.I made the one below before I learned how to alter patterns for a full bust, and sloping and narrow shoulders which are my fitting issues.

I've always really liked this jacket and have worn it in spite of the way it didn't quite fit. The pattern is S4954 (OOP)

I bought this lovely fabric

from Julie at Timmel Fabrics in Halifax when I attended the Sandra Betzina Workshop and I always planned on using V8043(OOP).

which is a Today's Fit pattern. I got to try on a sample and Sandra determined I was a size B for this jacket. But, since I've already made S4794

and really like it's lines, I decided to use it instead,but this time with alterations.

Here are diagrams of my alterations. The blue broken lines represent the new cutting lines (or the alterations).
The first one shows my Full Bust Adjustment or FBA. I usually add 1" here.

A close-up shows where I narrowed the shoulders by 3/8" from both the center front (CF) and the side front (SF) pieces.

You can also see in this pic how I fix my sloping shoulder problem by starting at the neck at size 12 and sloping down to size 8 by the shoulder.This amounts to 1/2". I then have to lower the armhole by 1/2".

This diagram shows the corresponding changes to the back pattern pieces as well as my sway back fix. For this I just fold out 1/4 to 3/8" above the waistline. This tiny change makes the biggest difference in the way the back of my garments fit!

Finally these are my trims which I plan to use but I don't know in which order yet!.

I'll also chose from these chains to weight the hem of my somewhat-like-a-Chanel jacket.

More later from


Linda T said...

I was all set to do a Chanel jacket a few months ago. The pattern I purchased (Burda OOP) took forever to get here due to a problem with the Esty shop. by the time it arrived, I was on to a different project. Now that it's getting hot here, it's not on my radar. Hopefully, by fall, I'll find my Chanel mojo again. I will enjoy watching your progress!

KID, MD said...

I can't wait to see! Thanks for sharing your fit changes. Your FBA looks a lot simpler than the multistep method in FFRP.

Lori said...

Your jacket will be so beautiful. Thanks for sharing the alterations, it is always helpful to see pictures.

pdiddly said...


I am glad to see you are doing this, when I was at the sew for pleasure show in Birmingham I purchased the Burda pattern to make a Chanel jacket, the chain too, but even better I purchased some of the most fantastic fabric from Linton Tweeds and the lady told me the pink fabric (see my blog) was ex-Chanel collection - they are not allowed to sell any fabric for the collections while current but can dispose of the fabric once the collection has finished. I will follow your blog for lots of tips - happy coincidence and clearly we have similar tastes.

If this turns out like your other items it will be a wonderful addition to your collection

Gail said...

The raw materials look very promising. This post however is another reminder that my Chanel jacket is still unfinished from last winter. I must pull it out of the cupboard as it is becoming quite cool here in Sydney.