Sunday, March 20, 2016

Answering Some Questions and a Surefit Designs Update

Happy Sunday everyone. I don't have a lot to show you today but I did want to address a couple of questions left for me in the comments section. I can't seem to get the version where you can reply to comments although I have it at Diana's Sewing Lessons. ???  And of course ,thank you to all who visit my little blog and a big thank you to you who leave comments. I love hearing what you think.

First of all, Andsoforth asked what pattern I used for last week's cardigan. It was loosely based on McCall's 6844. If you'd like to know what changes I made, please leave me your email and I'll be glad to explain how I achieved my look.

Judith Burgess wanted to know what pattern I had used for This jacket.


It's Silhouette Patterns 1825 and I would advise you to read my post concerning this pattern before buying it as I had issues with it.

And lastly, someone asked me ( I can't find the comment ) a while back for advice concerning starting up a Sewing Group and as that is something that I'm very happy to have done about 6 or 7 years ago and it is still going strong and is  very enjoyable, I'd be glad to  talk to you about this . If you leave me an message with your email address , I'll get back to you pronto.

Now about Surefit Designs. 

I've spent every chance I got in the last three weeks working on my body blueprint (sloper ), and testing for fit. My well fitting sloper has not come easily ! It certainly didn't fit me right out of the envelope.But I want to stress that Glenda Sparling is wonderful in helping with any issue in addition to providing a whole library of help videos and articles. I also want to thank Joy of Joyful Expressions (have you seen her videos? She's such a riot!! ) . Joy has been so kind in giving me help and advice. Thank you , again Joy, so much!

 Now to be fair, I've developed many fitting issues as I've gotten older. Long gone are the days when a size 10 fit me right out of my Vogue pattern envelopes (I've always loved Vogue ). If you're young, or not so young , or old like me and are slim and fit, you probably could plot that thing from the master pattern and get a great fit.

My issues are: sloping ,narrow  ,forward thrusting shoulders (Yeah, I know)
                        sway back
                        DD bust but narrow midriff and short waisted  (that one is hard) Surefit Designs                                                                 include a bust dart template which makes FBA's unnecessary.) 
                        rounded upper back ( due to many years as a teacher and just as many years                                       obsessed  with sewing)

Most of my challenges were in the back bodice and in my shaping the armscye to my narrow ,sloping shoulders. I think I'm happy with what I've developed and I do have a funnel neck top finished that is part of my Easter outfit. I'll show you on my dressform , which I've padded to my shape, and next week, I'll highlight how it looks on me.

My incentive to buy the system was because of my increasing interest in pattern drafting and designing what is in my head.I'm not ready yet to advise anyone to buy the Surefit Design system. I need to see if I can achieve that and if my sloper  actually makes it easier to achieve a good fit with the Big Four patterns Once I do, I'll be glad to give an opinion .

Tomorrow , I'm going to work on a jacket that is part of my Easter outfit and I want to use my sloper as a starting point. We shall see !!!

I'd really appreciate hearing more from other users of SFD, so pretty  please, leave me your thoughts.

More later from


helenko said...

I'll be happy to learn more about your SureFit journey. I have several of the kits, but have yet to do my blueprint. Not because I fear it, mainly 'cos almost zero sewing of any kind is happening (long story). Anyway, I have used the Design stylus a whole lot - it is an excellent piece of patternmaking equipment! If the kits turn out to be half as useful as the stylus, I'll be in heaven! Best of luck to you with it. I always enjoy your posts.

Nancy K said...

I wish you luck with using a sloper to adjust ready made patterns. I made a moulage and slopers from it with Kenneth King and while it all fit quite well, I couldn't for the life of me make it work to adjust patterns. He did not teach that since he uses slopers to design for his clients but he recommended a cd book by Lynda Maynard which I bought and printed out. It's one thing to use it for simple patterns but more complicated patterns? No at least not by me.

Joyree said...

I have not had good turnouts using a commercial pattern with my SFD blueprint to make it fit right. I have probably over 200 commercial patterns. I will try and try to make one fit right with the SFD bp. I end up wadding them up and throwing them away OR going back to the P&P method.
What I do is STYLE my SFD blueprint to MATCH whatever commercial pattern I like. That is what works for me. Your blueprint and the commercial patterns are going to be A LOT different. At least, they are for me. Glenda's tutorials on it haven't helped me either.

Sarah Liz said...

I think all these systems are not as straightforward as is marketed. I have the surefit pattern kits, and have yet to seriously use them. I did quickly do a rough draft for bodice, skirt and pants, and found that it worked well enough. I just don't think there is a quick answer for fitting problems. More is the pity...

garnet128 said...

Well I am glad to see that I am not the only one with problems making the SFD bp work with commercial patterns. I thought it was just me and could not wrap my brain around it.

Margene Yeaton said...

Hi Diana, funnel-neck top on the dress form looks like a very good fit. Never tried the Sure Fit designs because I do draft some of my patterns based on this book: PATTERN MAKING FOR FASHION DESIGN BY Helen Joseph Armstrong, Los Angeles Trade-Technical College, Copyright 1987. There is now a 5th Edition out, but I'm happy with the one I have--works well for what small amount of drafting I do. Have certificate in the Pattern Drafting program from college courses and has served me well. Love your work and the fit always seems spot on. Looking forward to your posts about this new journey. I'd be interested in learning what you have to say about starting a group of sewing ladies. Email is: THANK YOU.

Glenda Sparling said...

All commercial patterns (different styles) are going to be unique in how you approach using your sloper to help get them fit to your personal shape. Depending on the specific style, some will be much easier than others. I also agree with Joy, that many times it is far easier to simply adapt or style the sloper by copying the design feature from the commercial pattern. However, in other situations, you will be able to see when the shoulder slope is not correct for you or when you need a rounded back adjustment, or when you usually do an FBA. Much of this can be eliminated when you refer to your sloper during the analysis of a commercial pattern.

Faye Lewis said...

I spelled your name wrong in the document that I sent you. I will fix that!

Anne Scanapcio said...

I just bought the dress kit, I realize there is work in making a BP but that's not any different than making a sloper. However, with that said, I agree that it doesn't always work using the sloper to correct a commercial pattern depending on the style.. I usually drape it on my dress form which I learned in college in draping and flat pattern. That has always helped me. I agree with Diana that as we get older the changes we need to make are different. I am hoping for success. I think you funnel neck looks perfect.