Friday, October 3, 2008

Making Coats, Part 1

I need to take a little break from sewing because my thumbs are hurting .I thought you might like to see some of the coats and jackets that I've sewn in the last few of years.I'll post a few photos below and more here. ( I've finally learned how to insert the links....YEAH!!! )

Actually the first coat I'll show you was made in the spring of 2003, but I still wear it and love it. I used Vogue 7606, which is now discontinued .

I changed the design to make it into a long coat because five years ago, we were still wearing long things. I also added buttons and a kick pleat.
I used a drapery fabric which has a raised texture and almost looks quilted.If you look closely ,you'll see that I almost pressed out the texture in the front. This is a fault I have- of over-pressing.

My second coat was made from the same pattern. The major differences are no kick pleat, the fabric is a curly textured wool and by then ,I had bought Sandra Betzina's Power Sewing book and had learned her tailoring techniques for a better fitting garment.Here I'm showing you the coat and the book:

I get a lot of compliments on this coat and it is truly one of the most comfortable coats I've ever worn.For anyone who is interested in knowing the steps I used from Power Sewing, I'll next post a tutorial on the subject.

In the spring of 2005, I made a shorter length coat and a matching skirt for a wedding. Again I used a drapery/upholstery fabric. For the skirt, I used the reverse print.The pattern for the coat was Vogue 7978 shown below , and for the skirt V2854 Both, I think are discontinued..

Although I used Power Sewing tailoring techniques and the coat hangs well, I still hadn't learned all I needed to know about fitting and I find it a bit too roomy for the style. But I wear this a lot. It also looks good with a dressy pair of jeans.

This past winter, I made Butterick 4465.

I had a hard time to decide on the length of the coat and which collar to use. I finally decided on view B for both. I'm not in love with the collar and I may yet decide to remove it and make collar D.

The fabric is a heavy wool blend boucle. My design details were to add fringe to the collar and patch pockets. I also used a contrasting faux suede for the bound buttonholes. I really like the contrast, don't you?

This coat s very warm and cozy but it isn't a favorite. I will wear it but probably not for years and years.

That is the disadvantage of sewing isn't it? you can't always get an accurate vision of what a garment will look like until its finished.

Last winter,I made Vogue V8123 . I think this is just the cutest coat! (Now I'm sounding like Sandra Betzina! )I made it out of a black mink faux fur.

To avoid bulk, I lined the coat right up to the edge of the centre front and added elasticized loops and pretty buttons. To hold the lining in place at the front ,I pick stitched along the "pelts" on each side.

For whatever reason, the sleeves ended up being a little too short (nothing new with that eh, Tamara?).I had to add a bit of a cuff but I guess that added another design element.

This jacket is really fun to wear. I wear it with jeans, dress pants, a red wool double knit dress that I love ,etc.

For those of you who subscribe to Burda World of Fashion, the Oct. issue features Faux Furs .The purple one is really very similar to mine. I think that's pretty cool.

So this is the first instalment of my coats and jackets.Let me know what you think. Should I change the collar on the boucle coat???
Happy Sewing ,everyone!


Ann's Fashion Studio said...

Hi Diana, what a wonderful post on jackets. I'm like you, I love making jackets :)
I've contemplated making B4665 and at the time I would have chosen the "D" collar. That is my style choice though. I would have to see the jacket on you. I am sure it must look very nice on you! You could always keep this one as is and just make another one :)
All your jackets look very well done, and I love the fabrics -especially the red one. The faux fur one does look fun :)
I have that book too and I really like it.
Do you work this week-end?

Sew Passionista said...

Hi Ann, thankf for all the comments. My husband wasn't around to take photos of a couple of the coats so I just published as it was.
Yes ,I am working to you soon.

Tany said...

I love your coats, each one has little special details. I've made a similar fur jacket some years ago too, but mine has a hood (it's a BWOF model, can't remember the edition).

Paola said...

Your coats are wonderful! Great work!

paco peralta said...

Diana .- go splendid collection of coats. I love the model of bouclé with that big neck and the jacket of fake vison is great. never tried to work with furry fabric. thanks for show. Ahhh .... I already have the pattern of Vogue coat Sandra Betzina (Ann sent it to me). I want to make this coat for my sister, I hope to have all my time between occupations.

greetings from Barcelona and see you soon.


Vicki said...

No, no! Don't change it! Looks perfect as it is! What great coats. You must live somewhere where it is cold. Now I am off to make a cup of tea and enjoy your Flickr.

Cennetta said...

Diane, I must say all of your beautifully crafted coats would be welcomed in my coat closet. I certainly need to beef up my outer wear. Being as picky and cost concsious as I am, It's hard for me to buy a RTW coat.

Thanks for sharing.