Sunday, August 22, 2010

New Look 6284 and Chaddo Ralph Rucci Pants

My grandchildren visited last week so not much time for sewing.I thought though that I would show you a top I finished a while back but was waiting for the Chado Ralph Rucci V1054 pants to be finished before showing it and I just finished them.

The top is my second version of New Look 6807( Here is the first one )



I used a printed layer over a plain layer of polyester geogette.

I made three changes to the pattern.

#1. I added about 3" at both the center front and back because I wanted more gathers at the neckline.

#2. I lengthened the sleeves to 3/4 length and narrowed the fullness because I didn't have enough fabric.

#3. I added a couple of inches to the length of the top.


Here it is on Antoinette.



And here it is on me.



This garment is a great success because I really love it and have worn it as a lounging piece and found it to be very comfortable.


As for the pants,they've been a challenge! Here is the line drawing.




There's a band which extends from the front and back yoke and is sewn to the side of the front and back pieces so I didn't know how to alter the pants or if my usual size 12 would fit .So I cut a size 14. I took a chance without making a muslin because the crotch length was Ok

After sewing everything together and trying them on, the seat and the back of the legs had too much fabric!!
At this point ,I had sewn all the top stitching to that side panel."

"Why did she do that?" you might ask!

It had to come out on the back pieces . Then I took an extra 3/8" seam in from the original seam like this:




and still ,too much fabric back there. Now I always have to shave off 1/4" from the curve at the hip because I'm flat there. (That's the only place I'm flat! LOL) So I decided to try this but only to the back piece and not the band.I took the extra 1/4" from the top of the hip all the way to the bottom of the leg because I wanted the legs to be narrower than they were.This photo shows what I did.



And guess what! It worked! I achieved a great fit but not a perfect fit mind you.
There's still a bit too much fabric at the back of the knee.I think I would have been OK with a size 12.Therefore ,this pattern is pretty true to size, IMO.

So thenI had to unsew the inner legs at least part way so I could redo the top stitching in the back.Good thing I love to top stitch!

My advice for you, dear fellow sewists, is MAKE A MUSLIN WHEN TRYING A COMPLICATED PATTERN FOR THE FIRST TIME

One change I did make to the pattern was to extend the waistband an inch so it would fit over my muffin top.That worked great! See!




When I showed these pants to DH he thought they fit amazingly well! Little does he know just how much work went into making them fit like that!

I didn't line my jeans as the pattern called for. I've already put in enough hours on this garment.Enough is enough.

I used a hook and tab closure and hand stitched the hem.To add my own special touch,
I embroidered a tone on tone design on the back pockets which DH thought was very striking.





Will I make them again? Yes I think so as part of a csual pant suit I'm planning for the fall.

Well...Here they are!!



I'm happy with the way these two pieces look together in real life .

My Sandra Betzina top needed these pants to be appreciated. I love the two together.



Sorry for such a long post.
More later! Hope you find time to sew!.

Sunday, August 15, 2010

Linen / Poplyester Blend a Great Fabric?

No !!!.Absolutely not.

I used to fantasize aboout finding a linen / poly blend thinking it would have the best qualities of both fabrics, ie. breathable and non wrinkly.I was so excited when I found just such a fabric (the content is 45% linen /55% polyester.) at Fabricville this summer. Well, I was doomed to disappointment!

I washed the stuff three times and dried it as many times in a hot dryer which is what I do for most of my linens to cut down on wrinkles. Sometimes it works as in this dress which doesn't wrinkle at all and is pure linen and sometimes it doesn;t as in this coat which is a linen / rayon blend.

The fabric is really very nice.I bought the fabric in a dark wash denim look



a medium blue ,



and in grey.Here are the cropped pants I made.They are really attractive,but they wrinkle just like linen.




I used a couple of different patterns for these and I added the pocket I drafted for Tamara's houndstooth coat last winter. I love that pocket and use it every chance I get.




At the hem I sewed several rows of topstitching to add a little interest to an otherwise plain pant.



I've really only worn these once and Ryley wet all over them.She completely bypassed her diaper and totally soaked me!!!

As for the rest of my "dream fabric",I'll use it because I like it just as I like linen,but....

So has anyone else out there come across such a fabric and do you have a story to tell?

Happy Sewing from Diana!

Sunday, August 8, 2010

Wedding a Great Success and my Dress too

I want to say a big thank you to all of you who left me a comment about my Mother-of the-Groom dress.I really appreciated coming home and reading them. I wish I had some action photos but I don't yet. I will a little later and I intend to post them.
I got many compliments on my Kay Unger dress.I was very gratified.

Here is a photo of my darling Riley at her Mum and Dad's wedding!( Oh dear! I know how that sounds but it's the way of the world today isn't i?)



She is being her two big sisters in this photo. She spent 4 &1/2 hours at the wedding and didn't fuss once!Nana's good little girl!! Sorry! I turn into mush when I see my grandchildren.

This week I'm starting to work on a few pieces for our trip to Paris including the pants from Vogue 1054 which I'm making out of white bull denim. I know it's late for white but I've had these cut out since May and I really want to get them finished. Do you think mid September is too late for white? I think I already know the answer to that but I'll appreciate your opinions.




Has anyone out there made these pants?

Well I do hope you've had time to sew. I'm going to go to my favorite blogs now to see what you've been up to.

Have a great week and Happy Sewing!