Sunday, September 21, 2014

Denim Jacket, V1234 by Sandra Betzina

I seem to be on a Today's Fit by Sandra Betzina roll. I've made yet another piece, this time using  V1418

                                         
                                            V1418

which I loved the moment I saw it. This jacket was a test for the fit of the pattern so I made the simpler View B because it had much fewer details  than the more complicated View A which I want to make in navy linen in the soring.





This jacket is a stretch cotton denim. I made View B with a moderate FBA (I added 1/2" using the cut and spread method) , a Narrow Shoulder Adjustment, and a High Back Adjustment just below the neckline. ( sorry, I haven't covered that topic yet at Diana's Sewing Lessons ).

I didn't line my jacket but I spent a lot of time carefully finishing every seam with a Hong Kong Finish and I love the results. I used a cotton shirting for this step.




                              

I kept top stitching to a minimum resisting  doing every seam in sight, in favor of simplicity.



This jacket has a lovely oriental flair,and  is slightly boxy  (in a nice way) rather than fitted as the pattern envelope suggests.



I love the length of this jacket  and the closure tab. I made machine buttonholes and they turned out perfectly! See!



The only criticism I have for the pattern is that the back darts do not extend high enough  ( I remedied that)and the mid back  area is excessively roomy, if that makes sense. I'll need to make an adjustment next time. But my final conclusion is that this is a very wearable jacket and for once it was a piece I really needed to go with several other things in my wardrobe. Never mind, I couldn't find a hanger to hang it on and will have to hang it on a hook in the spare room because there is just no more room in any of my closets. And yes, I am ashamed to admit that!










What did you sew this week? Do you like Today's Fit patterns in general?

Have a great week!



14 comments:

Sew-To-Fit by AD Lynn said...

Terrific looking jacket....You really put a lot of nice work into the binding the seams.

Amanda S. said...

This looks great! I skipped this pattern because I don't think it will flatter my small upper torso, but I really loved the detailed version. BTW I am totally bookmarking your Hong Kong finish tutorial. That is so much easier then trying to use bias tape!

The Sewing CPA said...

Very nice jacket with a great fit! Thanks for sharing your tutorial on the HK finish.

Vicki said...

Very nice! Your topstitching is a really nice touch.

Sarah Liz said...

Semi fitted I think, rather than boxy - a nice shape for our middle aged torsos :).

Beautiful jacket, I love your inside finishing. It's smart as well as casual, and the pattern is now on my buy list :)

Anonymous said...

Lovely! This is sitting on my pattern pile...well more like basket...stuffed full basket. Thanks for making it up and posting about.

shams said...

I want I want I want I want! Beautiful, Diana! This is my favorite view of the pattern. I wish I had time to work on it, but not for awhile. Yours makes me want it more!

Mary said...

I absolutely love this Diana. What a great interpretation of this pattern. ~mary

Susan said...

Thank-you for the review, I have a piece of japanese cotton & was having a hard time deciding on a pattern.Not anymore! Would you ever do a variation of a full bust adjustment for a large stomach (lower but sticks out more than bust)?

velosews said...

Now that's a jacket!

Unknown said...

I DO like the Today's Fit patterns. Sandra Betzina is very gifted at designing for the "mature" figure. I have made one of her jacket patterns many times, and also as a vest (V3013). The 1990s trouser pattern V7027 fit me right out of the envelope with no adjustments; and a cowl neck top and skirt for knits (V7264) are also old favorites to whip up in a hurry.

Judith said...

Unreal jacket, the inner finishing detail that you added is brilliant! J

Ann Brodsky said...

This is beautiful, Diana! I'd be tempted to wear it inside out, since the inside is so lovely! I too am a big Sandra Betzina fan. I love the extra details that she includes, and also, I rarely have to make any fitting adjustments, which is well worth the extra cost of picking up a Vogue pattern!

Sharon said...

Lovely jacket and the topstitching really takes it up notch.