My Chanel Jacket...Part 1

For years ,I've been wanting to make another Chanel type jacket.I made the one below before I learned how to alter patterns for a full bust, and sloping and narrow shoulders which are my fitting issues.

I've always really liked this jacket and have worn it in spite of the way it didn't quite fit. The pattern is S4954 (OOP)



I bought this lovely fabric



from Julie at Timmel Fabrics in Halifax when I attended the Sandra Betzina Workshop and I always planned on using V8043(OOP).



which is a Today's Fit pattern. I got to try on a sample and Sandra determined I was a size B for this jacket. But, since I've already made S4794





and really like it's lines, I decided to use it instead,but this time with alterations.

Here are diagrams of my alterations. The blue broken lines represent the new cutting lines (or the alterations).
The first one shows my Full Bust Adjustment or FBA. I usually add 1" here.



A close-up shows where I narrowed the shoulders by 3/8" from both the center front (CF) and the side front (SF) pieces.



You can also see in this pic how I fix my sloping shoulder problem by starting at the neck at size 12 and sloping down to size 8 by the shoulder.This amounts to 1/2". I then have to lower the armhole by 1/2".



This diagram shows the corresponding changes to the back pattern pieces as well as my sway back fix. For this I just fold out 1/4 to 3/8" above the waistline. This tiny change makes the biggest difference in the way the back of my garments fit!



Finally these are my trims which I plan to use but I don't know in which order yet!.



I'll also chose from these chains to weight the hem of my somewhat-like-a-Chanel jacket.



More later from